Cheese is Alive, and Milk is NOT ORANGE.

I don't believe in orange cheese. Let me rephrase that. I know that some cheese ages into a deep orange-y, caramal-ish, yummy thing that must be devoured and savored simultaneously. I'm not talking about those cheeses. I'm also aware that milk color varies based on what the animals are eating. Just as there is no blue food, there is no orange milk.

Yet, people insist on dyeing their cheese orange. Here in the Midwest especially. When I first moved to Chicago I went out for a burger with some friends. I asked for Cheddar on my burger. When it came it had some orange stuff on top. I sent it back. When it came out again with the same orange stuff I told the server that I had ordered my burger with Cheddar. She then told me that that's what was on my burger. Now, up until a few years ago I lived on the east coast; NY, VT and MA with a VA stop as well. When you ask for cheddar on a burger you get white Cheddar. The way God, and farm animals intended. I was flummoxed by this orange "Cheddar."

I am going to get in so much trouble for this post I can tell.

Everyone says that coloring the milk doesn't affect the taste. Cow patties. Of course it does. Just like pasteurizing milk changes the taste (now is not the time for me to get up on my soapbox-another post I promise).

What is it that makes the cheese orange if it's not aging? Annatto seed. More specifically, it's the red flesh that surrounds the achiote seed. For centuries it has been used in Mexico, the Caribbean, and Latin America as a coloring and flavoring agent. Let me repeat that last part, a coloring and FLAVORING agent. In this country annatto is considered a natural additive exempt from certification.

Annatto is peppery and slightly sweet. Some say it has a nutmeg-ish quality to it. I've never noticed that myself though. For me, annatto dulls the natural flavor of a cheese. It's why the aged annatto dyed Cheddar from WI isn't nearly as bright and exciting to me as the 1 year White Cheddar from VT. It's the reason why when I taste the VT cheese I get grassiness, and acidity and tang and milkiness and why when I taste the WI I get a muted general milkiness and some sweetness like a roasted red pepper. Not unpleasant, just not what I want in a Cheddar.

You don't need to dye your Cheddar to have a delicious product. Just take a taste of Beecher's Handmade Cheese out of Seattle, WA. They make a ridiculously good, clothbound, Cheddar of love called Flagship Reserve. Without Annatto. It is scrumptious.

Culture Magazine

Finally there's a cheese magazine for the masses. It's called Culture: the word on cheese and it's a great addition to cheese shops, gourmet food stores, wine/beer stores, and of course, the magazine rack at Borders. So far there's only been one issue published so my review of the magazine is based on very little data. The first issue has blue cheeses as the focus and had a centerfold about Winnimere, and thus I must give them the award for "best first issue of a magazine ever".

What I like about the magazine is that it makes cheese very accessible to everyone. It's a great introduction to the cheesy world for beginners as well as people in the industry. This magazine puts you in touch with cheesemakers from all over. The premiere issue has stories on Bob Wills from Cedar Grove Cheese in Wisconsin (he has a Ph.D. in economics and a law degree), Ivano Bellodi an Italian cheese master, a section on a tiny corner of Ireland that makes ridiculously good cheese, and of course the brothers of Jasper Hill Farm. There's even a section with recipes from Chef Jennings from La Laiterie at Farmstead, a shopping section, and a what to do when you're in ______. The blank space in this issue was San Francisco. One can only hope that they'll incorporate different parts of the country in future issues.

While I like everything about the magazine from table of contents to the retailer directory I do have one gripe. On page 16 they showcase a lovely set of stainless steel and olive wood knives from Tuscany that come in a carrying case that doubles as a cutting board and serving tray. It retails for $2000. Bastards! Every time I flip through the magazine the knives call to me.

"Cheeeeesssssseeeeeeewench. Oh Cheeeeeeeessssseeeeeewench. Buy us. You know you want to. Imagine how smooth and supple our olive wood handles will feel in your powerful and yet delicate cheese grip. Cheeeeeeeeesssssseeeewench."

There ARE Good People in the World

How do I know this? Because I work with one of them. Last year as I've mentioned already I got to go to the "Festival of Cheese". Now, I'd never been and was an innocent. I had no idea what to expect (other than a lot of cheese), and honestly since crowds are not my forte, I was a bit apprehensive as well.

Enter co-worker SKLP. She helped guide me along, pointed out cheese VIP's and told me which cheese I had to try. One of my favorites was the Barely Buzzed from Beehive Cheese Company in Utah. Yes Virginia, there is cheese in Utah.

This is a pasteurized cows milk cheese that gets coated with a rub of Turkish grind coffee and lavender. It is also ridiculously tasty. This cheese won first place in the flavored cheddar category for the ACS 2007 and 2008 competitions.

It's sweet without being cloying, and although I don't go for flavored cheeses usually, and I think people use too much lavender in everything, this cheese is wonderfully balanced and easy to eat. It's creamy, and with the coffee base, a little "dirty" as well. Like fresh tilled earth, not North Michigan Ave.

So, what makes SKLP so wonderful? Not only did she point out this cheese to me last year, but when she came back from visiting her family in MN, she brought some back for me. You just can't find it here in Chicago. I am super psyched! Of course I had to take a few nibbles, but I'm trying to develop some kind of croissant, or danish or some pastry nummy to make with this cheese. I'll keep you updated.

Kudos to The Wedge in Minneapolis for being awesome!

Confessions of a Dangerously Cheesy Mind

I don't even know how to begin this post, or even if I should. I am not all that I appear to be. Nay. I have deep secrets, and today I feel like confessing.

I am a firm promoter, supporter, and ingester of American artisan cheese. I appreciate the time and energy that people have put into it. Being a cheesemaker is rougher than I can imagine. There is backbreaking work, long hours, very little pay and little recognition-if any. Smells that don't come out of your skin and hair. If the Gods are on your side you might be able to forge a living out of it. If the devil's on your side you might garner some modicum of fame or notoriety. The point is, I respect, and admire the people who work through harsh conditions to bring yummy goodness to the masses.

Unfortunately, none of this matter when I get the craving. The craving for little cheeses. Little mass produced cheeses that make me feel like taking a shower and scrubbing myself with steel wool. Never clean. Never clean. I'm speaking of course of the mini Babybel semi-soft cheese in "original" flavor.

It's wrong. On a Babybel day I don't eat any other cheese. The shame is too great. The cheese would know of my betrayal and turn to ash in my mouth.

They say that confession is good for the soul. I just don't know. I feel just as bad as I did before I confessed. I did eat a Babybel a few minutes ago. Maybe that's it. I also like Annie's mac and cheese from a box and Hershey milk chocolate bars..

He's the big cheese

I promise that this will be the only political post I make. In January. 2009. So, I don't want this to be a political thing because I know that not everyone believes the way I do. So, Laini Fondiller of Lazy Lady Farm (the maker of trillium, one of my favoritest cheeses) is a clever woman and that's all I'm going to say.

Who's a little schmoopy boopy baby cutie little bitty cheese?

Hannahbelles, that's who. What is a Hannahbelle? Only the cutest little cheese I have ever seen or tasted. They're made in Wesport, MA by Shy Brothers Farm and the cheese, although over in France it's called boutons de coulottes here they called them Hannahbelles in honor of their mother. Oh yeah and the brothers are two sets of twins. Seriously? Could the cheese, the farm, the brothers and the name be any cuter?

Ok enough of that let's get down to the skinny. So we got these in a few days ago as a sample. Now I'm going to be straight with you: we got samples of their flavored cheeses which I did NOT try. It's not personal, I just didnt want a little button of lavendar, or rosemary. I wanted to try their original cheese. I promise I'll try their flavored buttons another time. Promise.

So the cheese is a pasteurized cow's milk cheese that is reminiscent of a crottin in shape. The flavor is pretty mild, and the cheese is slightly chewy, but the finish is awesome! It's a bit like a St. Felician or St. Marcellin. It has a milky slightly sour and tangy thing going on. I like them! since they are just little wee cheeses if we wanted to age them it wouldn't take any time at all, you could have a really intensely cheesy bite in a short amount of time. Our cheese buyer is actually in the process of aging them to see how they do that voodoo that cheese do so good. I look forward to tasting the aging experiments.

Jeffrey Roberts- Cheese Guru Extraordinaire

Those of you who know me know that I am not a name dropper. Except for that one time, but honestly she's the first lady in four days so give me a break. There are some exceptions to the name dropping rule. One of those exceptions is Jeffrey Roberts. He is super swell. Really. He's a great ambassador not just for American artisan cheese, but for land conservation, sustainability, and education. He's also ridiculously nice.

Last year we had a party to celebrate the ACS being in Chicago. I hopped on the train and brought a book with me to read on my way to the party. I grabbed the book on my bed which happened to be Roberts' The Atlas of American Cheese. The party was going well, everyone was drinking, eating and having a good time.

As you know, I am super shy, but I decide to go for it and I introduce myself to a pleasant looking man who says that his name is Jeff. Jeff Roberts. I react in the same way I would've reacted had I been introduced to Prince in 1987. I freak out and act like a twit. I tell him that I was reading his book on my way to the party, and ask him if he'd sign it (I'M A HUGE DORK) and he cheerfully agrees. He poses for the photo that my slightly tipsy co-worker takes of the two of us. He actually remembers me the next day when our paths cross at a seminar. Since I went to NECI in Montpelier there's a slight chance that he came in to the restaurant, or bakery during my time there and that I served him, thus proving in no scientific way, that only good things come out of VT.

I hate posting pictures of myself, so I won't do it, but you can bet I get all giddy and perky whenever I look at it.

On a side note....

Today at work I failed at "20 cheese questions". The customer came in and asked for a white triple creme that starts with a "D". So, we're thinking delice de bourgogne. No, wait, we misheard him he actually said "B". Hmmmm..........um..........hm.......well..........We can't think of anything. Three of us behind the counter. Not one of us can think of a thing and I'm about to look in the bible. He then looks in the case and says that he's found it "boucheron". Um, well, it is a white cheese, but not a triple creme in any way shape or form. Not even a double creme. Single creme cheese. Traditional goat cheese from France. Not silky, creamy, buttery smooth.

I know that not everyone here grasps the magnitude of this man's confusion. Let me use a different analogy:

Today at work I was trying to find this guy a record.* He told me that there was this album he'd listened to a few weeks ago and he wanted to find it. "It starts with a 'B' and it's 4 guys in a rock band."

"Oh, I said, do you mean the Beatles?"

"I see it!" he says "It's these guys! The Bee Gees!"

*For the purpose of this story I was Annie Potts in the movie "Pretty in Pink". Why not Molly Ringwald? Because Annie Potts was in Ghostbusters and therefore is much more awesome and rad.

American Cheese Society

It is with a mixture of happiness (for doing it) and shame (for waiting so long) that I announce I am finally a member of the American Cheese Society The ACS is awesome! They help promote, educate and in some cases sponsor cheesemakers, retailers and enthusiasts. Here's a history of the ACS from their website:
"

A Brief History...

The American Cheese Society was founded in 1983 by Dr. Frank Kosikowski of Cornell University as a national grassroots organization for cheese appreciation and for home and farm cheesemaking.

The first annual meeting was held in the summer of 1983 at Cornell, with 150 attendees made up of small-scale and home cheesemakers, retailers, academics and cheese enthusiasts. A slate of officers was elected and a Constitution and Bylaws were adopted at that first meeting, laying the foundation for future growth.

The early years were marked by slow growth as the fledgling, all-volunteer organization coalesced through the dedicated efforts of a small circle of leaders from cheesemaking, academia and retail.

The Competition began in 1985 at the Third Annual conference. 30 cheesemakers entered 89 cheeses in 7 categories. A mini Festival of Cheese was also held that year.

A very successful 5th Annual Conference was held at the Four Seasons Boston and generated much press coverage. The script logo debuted at this conference. There were 170 entries in the competition and the first cheese sale/auction raised $800 for the Society.

Growing pains were evident over the next few years. No conference was held in 1988 and several small conferences followed as the Society struggled to redefine itself, its mission and develop a flourishing, inclusive member base.

The 1990s saw additional growth of the organization and American cheese. Through the efforts of the Society and its members, the quality and number of American cheeses increased and they became more mainstream and available at specialty retailers nationwide. Spurred by a number of books and articles on cheese and a large presence at gala foodie events in large cities, awareness grew.

The membership and competition grew and coalesced around some key issues including the preservation of Raw Milk cheeses. In March 2000, the Cheese of Choice Coalition was formed by the ACS and Oldways Preservation Trust.

The early 2000's brought additional structure and focus to the organization as a redefined mission statement and expanded committees advanced the organization, setting the stage for explosive growth from 2003 to 2008.

During the last five years, membership increased from 776 members in 2003 to 1,418 members in 2007. At the same time, competition entries increased from 762 cheeses to 1,208 cheeses.

From humble beginnings and guided by a vision that American Cheese could mean more than sliced single and that a community of cheese could be created, hundreds of dedicated and passionate individuals have united to create a vibrant and flourishing Society poised to continue to push the limits in the next quarter century."

Last year I got to go to a few of the ACS seminars through work. It was AWESOME! Seriously. There are seminars specific to cheesemakers that really get into the scientific aspect of cheese. My friend Shannon (also a member-but for much longer than I've been) went to a lot of those since she is one day going to be a great goat cheese maker. There were seminars on cooking with cheese, and my favorite one was the one called "Is selling up selling out?" There was a rep from Costco, Whole Foods, and an independent retailer in Seattle. It was really interesting to hear different points of view, and to see them debate each other.

The cheese buyer for our store got to participate in a seminar which was rather interesting too, but the best thing that happened was the "Festival of Cheese" which is held on the last day of the conference. Every single cheese that was entered in every single category is organized onto tables and offered up for sampling. Last year there were 1,149 cheeses. I think my favorite of the show was the Barely Buzzed (more on that later-promise) I think I was able to get about 250-300 tasted. Then there was no more room in the tummy. Oh yeah, there was also wine. Cheese people love wine and cheese. And wine. The next day there was a great cheese sale at Kendall College for all the leftovers. As I mentioned in a previous post, I had a lot of cheese.

This year they're holding the conference in Austin, TX in August. I know. I don't get it either. Texas, August, Cheese. One of these things is not like the other. One of these things does not belong. Ok, I take it back. Texas does have good cheese. The Mozzarella Company is an awesome. Hoja Santa is a wonderful cheese and the Mozzarella Company is one of the most respected and well known in the cheese world, and Paula Lambert is a ridiculously knowledgeable and an expert in the field. All I'm saying is August? Texas? Really? Well, I am absolutely going to the conference this year. I've got money for the plane ticket,and I just need the time off, and about a grand for hotel and a conference pass. I'm sure I'll figure something out by August.

And yes, that is a cow carved out of cheddar.

Ack!

So it's been a few days since my last cheese post. I know. I'm a horrible cheese wench and should be poked with a fondue fork. To prove to you that cheese can be fun, and doesn't have to be super serious I present to you the Canadian cheese board.