First comes the frivolity.
Why in the name of all that is lactic is Austin so dang blasted hot? I mean it was in the triple digits the entire time I was there. Awful. Just
fricking awful. I recommend that if the
ACS wants to have another conference in an area of the country that causes my eyelashes to sweat that they change the time of year. January sounds good.
So there's this cheese called
Bonne Bouche. Have I mentioned it before? I have? Oh well, let me say it again. I love this cheese. Upon meeting Alison Hooper I said "
OMG meeting you is like meeting Elvis. You're so awesome!" I then turned bright red, stammered and tried like hell to get out of the room before embarrassing myself any more. Alison seemed...stunned. I hope she knows that I meant she's a
rock star and I love what she's done for the goats, cheese and Vermont and not that I think she's
going to o.d. while on the toilet eating a ham sandwich. She seems like a smart woman. I'm sure she knew what I meant. I bought her new/1st book while at the conference but was too embarrassed to have her sign it. I am a dweeb.

I've wanted this book for many a moon. Now it is mine. My precious.

Now for the serious stuff.
People use the words artisan, farmstead and hand-crafted, but what do they really mean? Unfortunately
or fortunately depending on which side of the issue you're on there is no legal definition for what those words mean.
I've spent about a week working on this post. Searching my own beliefs to find answers. The thing is, right now at this time in my cheese life each answer I get only leads me to another question. Since at some point all cheese is touched, what makes something truly hand-crafted? Does being a farmstead
cheesemaker mean that you're automatically an artisan one? Can you be an artisan
cheesemaker if you don't have your own animals? If you can, does where you get your milk determine if you're artisan? Does being an organic or raw producer have any bearing on you also being an artisan
cheesemaker? Can you be a big company and still be artisan, or do only small producers get that title? If most of your cheese is commodity cheese, but you have a few artisan cheese are you an artisan
cheesemaker?
ARGH!
Farmstead seems to be the easiest one to define. A farmstead cheese means your animals are raised on the land that they're milked on, and that milk is turned into cheese on that same land.
Artisan is a bit harder to define.
Wikipedia says:
"
Artisan cheese is manufactured by hand using the traditional craftsmanship of skilled
cheesemakers. As a result the cheeses are often more complex in taste and variety. Many are aged and ripened to achieve certain
aesthetics. This contrasts with the more mild flavors of mass produced cheeses produced in large scale operations, often shipped and sold right away."
I agree with that. Kind of. A little bit. There are three big, well known, revered and respected (rightfully so)
cheesemakers. One makes less than 20 or so different dairy products. The other makes over 100. The third makes one. They are all put under the umbrella of "artisan" cheese.
So which one of them is an artisan
cheesemaker? The smallest of the three is also a farmstead cheese maker. Does that make them artisan? The company with less than 20 is not farmstead. Cheese is hand-ladled (a process that insures the curds aren't getting beat up). The other
cheesemaker? They have numerous factories and over 100 different cheeses under their company umbrella. Is that an artisan
cheesemaker? Are all of these
cheesemakers artisan? In my opinion, no.
The word Artisan is like porn. Stay with me here. I don't know how to define it, but
I know what it is when I see it (don't worry, the link is G rated.)Everyone has their own idea of what it means. To me being an artisan maker of cheese (or anything really) means that you are using traditional methods, skill and talent in hand-crafting your product. You are doing it for the love of your product. You are more
concerned with putting out quality product as opposed to quantity. Being a larger company is absolutely not a valid reason to be kicked out of the artisan club. I and everyone in the cheese world want
cheesemakers to have success. How you produce your product as a large company is much more important.
Artisan and hand-crafted seem to be an intertwined issue. What does hand-crafted mean? While in Austin I purchased a hand-crafted necklace. The woman had done the sketch, made the ceramic, combined her different colored glazes, painted it, and picked the cord for it to be put on. Although there were many that were similar, my particular necklace was unique and had slight imperfections. That is a hand-crafted product.
The little wheels of Constant Bliss are hand-ladled. Sometimes you get one that's perfectly flat on top and bottom. Sometimes you don't. Hand-crafted to me has an imperfection. Not like the "irregulars" bin at
Filene's, but a slight imperfection because human hands have a margin of error.
To me, an irregularity in a product is acceptable, and on some level desired. Real fruit is not uniform. It is lumpy, misshapen,
asymmetrical, and has a non-uniformity to it that pleases me. Every time I get
something from a
farmstand or farmer's market it is
going to be different than the week before. If it always tasted and looked the same I would begin to think they were selling industrial produce which is not what I want when I purchase from their stand.
It's the same with cheese. I want those differences. I want to be able to taste the
Grayson in the spring and compare it to the
Grayson I get in fall. Is that variation because it's an artisan cheese, or because it's a farmstead cheese or because it's a seasonal cheese? The answer is yes. That is why the word artisan is so hard to define.
This issue is not just for those of us in the cheese world. My pa is a member of the bread baker's guild and they are having very heated discussions about the word artisan. What's an artisan bread? This issue is also in the beer world. What is a microbrew? What is a hand-crafted beer? This issue is everywhere in the food world.
The problem is that if the government doesn't have a definition and thank Gouda they don't and the cheese community doesn't have a definition, do words like artisan and hand-crafted mean anything to you the consumer? My fear is that they won't, and cheesemakers who truly are doing artisan cheeses won't be recognized and applauded for their efforts.
This is a sticky issue. Much like the issue of what can have the raw milk cheese label. There are those people out there who know in their hearts that they are artisan cheesemakers, and there are some who want to capitalize on the word. Who knew cheese had so much drama?